Table of contents

Scientists from all over the world participated in the conference and they have contributed with the communication of their valuable research work. Representatives from the industry and important decision makers have been together with the academic researchers and the creation and exchange of ideas has formed a fertile community, active from the first until the last moment of the AITAE 2018 Conference.

The main goal of the AITAE 2018 conference was to bring together academic scientists and researchers, industrialists and industry engineers, policy and administration specialists to exchange ideas and to share their experiences and results. After the successful organization of the AITAE 2018 Conference, the feedback received has confirmed that the goal of the AITAE 2018 has been fully achieved.

We would like to thank all the members of the Organizing Committee and the Scientific Committee for their continuous support during the time of the preparation and even after the Conference as well as for their contribution to maintain the high level of the AITAE 2018 Conference.

List of Organising Committee Chairs, Scientific Committee Chairs and International Scientific Committees are available in this pdf.

All papers published in this volume of IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering have been peer reviewed through processes administered by the proceedings Editors. Reviews were conducted by expert referees to the professional and scientific standards expected of a proceedings journal published by IOP Publishing.

Developing talents in a firm starts by the acquisition of the right candidates. The firm should have a well-defined process to acquire highly talented people. Software development companies constantly look for fresh graduates for strategic and economic reasons. Fresh graduates usually require intensive training to pick up on the pace of the new job requirements. Several software development companies started conducting in-house training for carefully selected candidates who passed a comprehensive placement test followed by a technical interview. At the end of this training, only highly qualified trainees will be hired for full time positions. In this paper, we present a number of methods for talent assessment in software development companies followed by a questionnaire completed by 11 software engineers in a software company in Jordan.

This paper discusses the envelopment analysis for selected cities. It uses the DEA (Data Envelopment Analysis) for both input and output oriented methods using a data set of 176 cities, and tests several classifiers in classifying the dataset using both cross-validation and percentage split.

Big data is becoming bigger every day. Even for simple applications such as the Digital Bibliography & Library Project (DBLP) database, the data is becoming unmanageable using the conventional databases because of its size. Applying big data processing methods such as Hadoop and Spark is becoming more popular because of that. In this work, we investigate the use of Hadoop and Spark in the querying process of big data and we compare the performance of them in terms of their execution time. We use the DBLP database as a case study. Results show that Hadoop and Spark enhances the query execution time significantly when compared with conventional database management systems. We also found that Spark enhances the execution time over Hadoop.

In the recent years the financial debate has focused on the national debt of the countries. These debts consist of different debts to banks, institutions and other countries. In the current work we investigate a method for a mutual national debt cut amongst a group of countries using as a deposit capital equal to the minimum of the debts within the group. The only condition is that all countries own and possess debt within the group. The deposit capital is circulated to repay the debts. At the end remains intact, it works in fact as a catalyst. The algorithm introduced in this paper is based on a simple transfer table. The advantage of the algorithm is that it is not actually based on financial resources. On the other hand depends on countries will for cooperation.

The article is devoted to the investigation of speech recognition in Flight Simulator cockpit. We have done research and developed software for speech recognition in Flight Simulator with limited vocabulary in C# from scratch. The speech recognition system works in real time and offline mode in Windows platform. We used Mel Frequency Cepstral Coefficients and Linear Predictive Coefficients feature extraction algorithms and trained the system by multilayer artificial neural networks. The User Interface of platform is highly functional and allows users to update system parameters through the interface. Our Speech Recognition system results are compared to the results of Microsoft Speech SDK and received satisfactory achievement.

Being one of the most linguistically rich languages, Azerbaijani has been researched less in the context of natural language processing area. The text corpus created from Azerbaijani news articles is designed to apply supervised machine learning approaches for the case of automatic news labeling. Chi-squared test and LASSO methods have been implemented for feature selection and pre-processing. The application of supervised machine learning approaches to the text corpus allowed us to compare the performance results of well-established supervised machine learning approaches in the domain of Azerbaijani language.

This paper presents the development of a phase advance network to enhance the performance of a variable-speed doubly-fed induction generator (DFIG) driven by a wind turbine under various operating conditions at Zafarana wind farm, Egypt. Firstly a fairly detailed simulation of a real DFIG-based wind energy conversion system is built using Matlab/SimPower environment. The simulation output is verified by comparing the simulation output with similar practical results and also with that published by Gamesa G5x standard test results. A phase advance network is designed and implemented to enhance the DFIG-based Gamesa G5x wind energy conversion unit. The FRT characteristics is examined when the system is subjected to a three phase short circuit test and the results obtained using the various enhancement techniques have presented in a comparative form with similar results using the implementation of the phase advance network. The results illustrate significant improvement in overall system performance and superior operation of the wind conversion unit using the phase network.

This paper introduces a method of rotor impedance control by using controlled capacitor/inductor connected in series in the rotor circuit. The proposed system can be operate as a speed control system or a soft starting system to limit the starting current of the motor. An approach to a three MOSFETs-based a rotor circuit of induction motor is presented. The experimental realization of the drive posed some serious problems, notably with regard to the successful driving pulses of MOSFETs over a wide speed range. Analysis of the secondary MOSFETs-controlled motor raised many interesting challenges. It was decided to use an equivalent circuit approach to the analysis because the primary voltage and current were both largely sinusoidal. The equivalent circuit used is based on the single-phase equivalent of a balanced sinusoidal three-phase system. The effective value of the external rotor inductance or capacitance is calculated. Moreover, the motor performance specially speed, motor starting current, and torque during the control of duty cycle of MOSFETs are studied. Also, MOSFETs performance has been studied. Closed loop speed control of the motor speed have been investigated using hysteresis control based on controlling MOSFETs duty cycle. Experimental results have been carried out in the Laboratory to verifying the analysis. The simulation results are given and proved to yield good agreement when compared with the experimental results.

The amplitude-time characteristics of cadmium telluride thin films switching were investigated at the influence of single impulses duration 1 μs. It has been founded that with an increase of cadmium telluride layer thickness from 3 μm up to 8 μm, an increase of the operating threshold from 70 V to 105 V is es-tablished. The maximum residual sample voltage was change in the range from 12 V to 40 V, the minimum - from 5 V to 20 V. Samples switching time was no more than 2 nanoseconds; the samples interelectrode capacity does not exceed 2 pF. All test samples were operated without failure up to 20 times. Based on the results of cadmium telluride films structural studies by X-ray diffractometry and scanning electron microscopy we proposed a mechanism of cadmium telluride films with columnar structure monostable switching based on the formation of melted high-conductivity channels in cadmium tel-luride grains oriented in the [111] direction.

Thermodynamics as a physical and healing therapy is considered to have potential beneficial effects when applied to soft tissue. Normothermia is the state of a body being at a normal temperature and is essential to healthy cell functioning and wound healing. This article presents the application of thermoelectric elements on a conductive textile; focusing on the heat transfer of five elements over varied areas. By setting the temperature of the thermoelectric elements relative to skin temperature, a thermal camera captured the heat transfer. An increase in heat transfer was created by lining the conductive textile with commercial polyester wadding forming a quilted patch. Thus, by adapting this patch, the maximum distance between the elements relative to a minimum heat loss was observed at 3 cm. Any distance less than 3 cm covers a small area, whilst an increase in heat loss occurs above 3 cm. Further research can be conducted by implementing a pulse width modulating (PWM) system to maintain a constant temperature between 32 and 34 °C. With the addition of a temperature sensing device, a preventative system can be developed for chronic wounds essential for diabetic patients.

Despite all progress connected with use of renewable energy sources it is widely known that fossil fuels will remain dominating in short - and medium-term prospects. Presently fossil fuels are made more, than three quarters of a global power mix, and in the next decade the level of their use will probably be the same. Among them there are crude oil and natural gas as widely used and globally sold energy resources which reserves unevenly distributed, are responsible to a large extent for energy security in the world. Therefore the relations between the European Union, one of the largest oil and gas consumers, and Azerbaijan, the supplier of energy whose location isn't really far from the EU attract special attention of many politicians and creators of public opinion in Europe. The Southern Gas Corridor which ceremony of start of the first stage was held on May 29, 1918 in Baku is one of priority projects for the EU, and provides transportation of 10 billion cubic meters of the Azerbaijani gas from the Caspian region through Georgia and Turkey to Europe by 2020 will be the first real diversification of gas coming in from the East. At an initial stage, the gas extracted within the second phase of development of the Azerbaijani gas-condensate field "Shah Deniz" is considered as the main source for the corridor. At later stage other sources can be attracted to the project. Gas within the second stage of Shah Deniz field will be exported to Turkey and to the European markets by expansion of the South Caucasian gas pipeline and construction of Trans-Anatolian (TANAP) and Trans-Adriatic (TAP) pipelines. The project involves two EU member states, Italy and Greece, candidate countries, Turkey and Albania, and Azerbaijan, the EU strategic partner in energy. Four different types of countries were involved: member states, candidate countries, associated partners and future strategic partners. The EU supported Southern Gas Corridor is directed to curtail Russian energy leverage over Eastern and Southeastern European countries which are heavily reliant on Russian gas deliveries. It opens up the direct access for the land locked Caspian states, primarily Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan, to the European gas markets. This article describes development of the energy relations of the EU and the Republic of Azerbaijan. The energy needs and potential of these two partners are investigated and their main interests are defined. The main problems, opportunities and obstacles for power cooperation of the EU and Azerbaijan are discussed, and views of development of their principles of energy policy in the near future are considered.

A textile-based thermopile has been fabricated by etching the nickel layer of a nickel coated carbon fiber (NiCF) selectively to form a series of CF-NiCF junctions along the NiCF. The pristine NiCF was inserted into the polyester woven fabric manually. Each half part of the float yarns was covered with Lurapret^® D579 dropwise to form a 36-pair CF-NiCF thermopile. After drying in the oven, the sample was etched in the etching solution, then rinsed with water and air dried. The Seebeck coefficient resulting from 36-pair CF-NiCF thermopile is 93.04 µV/K. This proofs that creating a flexible thermoelectric generator from a conductive textile yarn is possible.

The current problem is the autonomous supply thermal energy and hot water for civilian and military consumers. The most commonly used for this purpose are installations based on solar thermal collectors, which at the same time require an external power source up to 100 W for electronic control components and a circulating pump, which does not allow them to be fully considered as autonomous. One of the ways to solve this problem is to combine in one installation solar panels and heat collectors. It has been proposed the constructive-technological solution of the hybrid photoenergy system with flexible solar cells based on cadmium telluride, which allows getting the total efficiency of such a system up to 73% for the transformation of solar energy into heat and electric energy.

The aim of this investigation is to determine the configuration that will enable a micro heat exchanger system to function more efficiently. Heat exchangers are devices that can be used for exchanging energy between flows, which can have a wide variety of uses and different configurations; therefore, studies are carried out in order to increase the efficiency of heat exchangers. In this study, heat transfer capacity and system efficiency of the swirl flow were investigated using CFD as compared to the parallel flow heat exchanger, which is another configuration. The air drawn by the fan is sucked into the holes and enters the system, thereby air entering the system impinges on the heat exchanger tube. The flow character has a major role on the Nusselt number and heat transfer coefficient. The main flow variables are Reynolds number and the orientation of the inlet holes. The boundary conditions were determined according to the fan capabilities and power of resistance. The positions and types of the holes were adjusted to allow for axial and tangential impact onto the heat exchanger tube, and the holes were also located in order to obtain the best impingement angle. CFD simulations were carried out with ANSYS Fluent and k-epsilon turbulent model was used with coupled algorithm. The effect of laminar flow on the heat transfer were observed at different Reynolds numbers. Also the effect of swirl flow characteristics on system efficiency is clearly observed as compared to parallel flow.

The possibility of creation of direct wave of negative pressure in real heterogeneous liquid systems was confirmed experimentally under the certain kinetic and hydraulic conditions. The negative pressure can be considered as a factor of both useful and destroying energies. The new approach to generation of the negative pressure waves in impure, unclean fluids has allowed the creation of principally new energy saving technologies and installations to increase the effectiveness and efficiency of different production processes. It was proved that the negative pressure is one of the main factors causing hard troubles in some technological and natural processes. Received results emphasize the necessity to take into account the role of the negative pressure as an energy factor in evaluation of many transient thermohydrodynamic processes in the Nature and production systems.

In this study aloe vera liquid extract was added to PVA to obtain nanofiber mats with integrated bioactive compounds. Nanofibers are effective in drug release process and the most cost and time effective way to produce them is through roller electrospinning method. Several concentrations of PVA and aloe vera extract have been prepared, as well as pure 10 wt% polyvinyl alcohol solution to compare their properties. Viscosity and electroconductivity of solutions were measured, atomic force microscopy was used for evaluation of nanofiber mats morphology and diameter measurements, samples were analysed and compared by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and mechanical properties of the nanofiber mats were tested.

The drive for integration of electronic components into textile substrates has been a major aspect of research into production of smart textiles. Electronic components as such, are rigid, inflexible, do not easily follow body movements and can cause hypersensitivity of the skin upon prolonged contact due either to the presence of irritants or the rigid nature of the materials. Another important disadvantage of electronic components, in wearable applications, is that while textiles and textile like materials can withstand the usual cleaning / care treatments, those same treatments can have detrimental effects on the transmission lines and on any exposed electronic parts. This paper investigates a method for the protection of transmission lines made of conductive yarn seams on specimens containing both electronic and textile elements integrated on a textile substrate as well as the protection of the electronic parts. The reliability and durability of the transmission line on the combined specimen is determined by the measurements of the value of an electrical resistance located on a rigid PCB, after repeated wash cycles.

Phase Change Materials (PCM) have received considerable attention in recent years in many thermal energy storage applications, due to the isothermal phase change process and large storage capacities. This study deals with the hypothetical structure of micro encapsulated phase change materials of matrix type and the particle's surface roughness influence on its laminar drag coefficient. The investigation has been performed by numerical simulation using commercially available software. Results show that the drag coefficient decreases as particles' surface roughness increases, even at low Reynolds numbers.

The paper deals with the influence of mechanical wear out on the resulting mechanical properties of roving. The paper deals with the scraping of roving from inorganic fibres. Glass, carbon and basalt roving are used for this experiment. Rovings are mainly used for the production of composites. The preparation of the roving for processing into composites includes their coiling of the supplied large coils on the coils used in the manufacture. With this rewinding, mechanical damage to roving can occur, which could result in loss of strength. The aim of this work is to determine whether the values of the mechanical properties change depending on the wound generated during winding.

For this purpose, a special Cycle Abrasion Apparatus has been developed to simulate wiping during winding. The work is first aimed at finding the optimal measurement procedure on the Abrasion Apparatus. Further, the results of weight loss, loss of strength, particle removal and measurements on the Zweigle G522 instrument are processed.

The quick emergence of composites since their invention due to their high specific properties do not gainsay the health problems associated with the use of synthetic fibers as reinforcing agent of almost all commercially available polymer composites. To avoid those hazardous effects, the current global tendency is the incorporation of lignocellulosic fibers instead of these mineral ones owing to their biodegradability, low cost and low density, renewability and aspect ratio in addition to their high mechanical properties. A new material's concept currently applied in Algeria, based on an externally GFRP polymer concrete, proved its efficiency in piping systems. The design merging composite materials with polymer concrete in laminated form is used to get the most out of these two materials such as: more economic final material with high mechanical properties in tension also in bending in addition to a better durability properties. The aim of the present work is the substitution of glass fabrics and short fibers reinforcing the polymer materials in the current material concept by natural fibers and fabrics made up of jute plant. To assess the possibility of using this new concept reinforced with jute fabrics in civil engineering applications, we carried out tensile and interlaminar shear strength tests. Then, in the second part of this research work, mechanical properties durability of this new material was followed up through its immersion in a harsh environment simulating theoretically 56 years of aggressive exposure. The obtained results evidence high tensile and interlaminar shear properties. On the other hand, the residual tensile and ILS strengths allow the consideration of this new material's concept reinforced with natural jute fabrics as suitable for civil engineering applications for non-bearing load elements.

Treatment of materials by sol-gel technique can be an excellent tool to convey new properties to surfaces, therefore the hybrid organic-inorganic materials show the properties of both phases, contributing for example to the obtainment of an anti-fouling coating. In this research, the explored procedure includes the co-condensation of silane coupling agents with epoxide and amine tail-groups, (3-Glycidyloxypropyl)-trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and (3-Aminopropyl)-triethoxysilane (APTES), respectively, in combination with two perfluorosilane precursors, namely glycidyl-2,2,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8,9,9-hexadecafluorononylether and trimethoxy-(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)-silane, either individually or together. This synthetic approach allows collecting stable hydrophobic, non-toxic, anti-fouling coatings that were investigated to study their morphology and chemical structure by different physical-chemical techniques. The anti-fouling properties were evaluated through test on treated glass slides in different microbial suspension in seawater-based medium per 24 h at room temperature. During tests, each suspension was maintained in continuous agitation to simulate the natural movement of seawater, and the attachment of cells on bare degreased glass slides is compared with that occurring on the treated slides. Results show that the fluorinated coatings have good antimicrobial activities and low adhesive properties, no biocidal effects towards the studied microorganisms were observed.

The paper is devoted to development of the range of ring-spun yarns of Arselon fibers. Arselon is a polyoxadiazole heat-resistant fiber produced at JSC "SvetlogorskKhimvolokno" (Belarus). The investigated yarn count range was from 16 to 29 tex (Ne37 - Ne20). It was determined the influence of linear density of the Arselon yarn on its mechanical properties and evenness. In addition, it was shown that winding and assembling lead to significant reducing the number of frequently-occurred faults of 2-ply yarns. The developed range of Arselon yarns is the base for creation of new textile products such as woven and knitted fabrics and heat resistant goods which can be made of them.

Carbazoles are aromatic heterocyclic compounds derived from the fusion of a benzene ring with an indole nucleus in 2,3 position. Today, many carbazole derivatives are widely studied as anticancer, anti-fungal, antioxidants, photoconductor, anti-bacterial, antimalarials, anti-Alzheimer, anti-tuberculosis, anti-HIV agents and for the treatment of obesity. Some of them, differently substituted on carbazole nucleus, have been synthetized and their biological activity have been evaluated. The purpose of this work is the study of new species obtained binding, a series of carbazole derivatives in which the carbazolic nitrogen has been functionalized with different alkyl-thiol chains, with gold nanoparticles, synthesized in organic solvent. The formation of self-assembled monolayers of these ligands is obtained on the spherical surface of gold nanoparticles, with a stabilizing effect against aggregation. These systems might present a double innovative function, matching an antineoplastic activity typical of carbazoles, with the photothermal effects of gold nanoparticles.

This work focuses on the changes in properties of epoxy resin filled with five carbon forms in several volumes (graphene nanopellets, carbon particles from acrylic waste, and 3 different types of recycled carbon fibres). Main purpose is to enhance knowledge in influence of various carbon forms and their volume on final matrix structure and properties, and their applicability in fibre reinforced composites. Current measurements show that all types of carbon particles influence matrix properties to a certain extent, as their presence activates overall structural changes in epoxy resins curing.

The RESYNTEX project aims at designing, developing and demonstrating a new industrial symbiosis between textile waste and the chemical industry. The new original symbiosis is based on the chemical/enzymatic transformation of textile waste in a form that facilitates the easy take up as feedstock by the chemical industry in order to produce high added value chemicals. The parallel production of various high added value products ensures competitive production costs for the chemical market. As a result, economic advantages can be provided besides prevention of industrial environmental problems. The project will consider and demonstrate the whole value chain starting from the citizen behaviour change and the textile collection of unwearable textiles, improving and automatizing the industrial sorting, demonstrating the production of the transformed textile components and the symbiosis with the obtained chemical products and finally analysing the best economic models and policy actions for a successful introduction in EU markets.

Photochromic textiles are of considerable interest for smart and functional textile applications due to their remarkable dynamic colour changing effect when irradiated with light of a certain wavelength. The use of resource efficient processes, such as digital inkjet printing and supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO₂) dyeing techniques enables an economic production of those high-end functional products with high material costs. In this study, photochromic polyester fabric has been prepared by applying two commercially important photochromic dyes from spirooxazine (SO) and naphthopyran (NP) dye classes using scCO₂-dyeing technique. The properties of scCO₂ dyed photochromic fabrics were compared with the properties of the same dyes in a non-polar solvent, hexane. UV-Vis spectroscopy and a specially designed online colour measurement system capable of simultaneous UV irradiation and colour measurement were used to evaluate the photochromic colour behaviour. Both photochromic dye types embedded in textile as well as in solution showed significant reversible colour changing properties when exposed to UV light and revert to their original non-coloured form when the UV light is removed. The scCO₂ dyed polyester fabrics exhibited similar trends of colour build-up as in solution, while contrasting behaviour was observed in terms of colour changing rates compared to their behaviour in solution.

Mechanical responses of inorganic clay to external stimuli have been rarely implemented into devices that interact with the human body. We demonstrate that the hygroscopic and free swelling behaviours of Na-bentonite were engineered to design wearables, which give multifunctional responsiveness to human sweat. By printing bentonite nanoclay (BNC) composite on flaps of fabrics, they can reversibly change shape within a few seconds in response to environmental humidity gradients. Body's need for cooling is facilitated through controlled ventilation by opening and closing of these clay printed flaps. This study provides a background for developing new shape memory clay composite for many applications in garment industry.

The role of fiber content regarding the textile performance and physiological and sensorial comfort attributes of single jersey fabrics, typically used in skin-near applications such as underwear, was investigated. Fabrics made of 100% lyocell and 50:50 lyocell/polyester blends were compared to 100% polyester fabrics, typically used for institutional underwear. Blending polyester to the cellulosic fiber improved fabric tenacity and dimensional stability, while the 100% polyester fabric remained unmatched. While all tested fabrics showed low vapor transfer resistance and hence high breathability at a hotplate test, lyocell-containing fabrics proved superior in terms of vapor uptake as well as in skin sensorial aspects. A synergy effect was observed in the blended fabrics in terms of more efficient liquid transportation and faster fabric drying.

This study summarizes the general information about nursing pads and novel electrospun nanofiber mats as potential component for nursing pads. It also compares electrospun thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), cellulose acetate (CA) and polyethylene oxide (PEO) nanofibers with a polypropylene conventional disposable nursing pad (NP) in terms of hydrophilicity, breathability, air permeability and swelling properties. Nanofiber mats prepared by the electrospinning method have unique properties such as smooth surface, high specific surface area and high porosity with fine pores which will lead to improved wicking properties. These properties make nanofibers potential component for disposable nursing pads. Mean diameters of produced nanofibers were 284.39, 609.70 and 219.30 nm for CA, TPU and PEO, respectively. Water contact angle measurement revealed that these nanofibers show good wettability properties better than commercial nonwoven nursing mat and air permeability results revealed that these nanofibrous mats have considerably adequate permeability. Besides, water vapor permeability results showed these nanofibers still show good breathability despite their compact structure.

In present study, DMDHEU (dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea), which has been used for wrinkle-resistant finishing in textile, was used in FR finishing of CO/PET blends as a crosslinker with novel FR chemical (Fire-off). Flame retardancy performance of CO/PET fabrics treated with Fire-off and Fire-off/DMDHEU were investigated and compared. In addition, wrinkle resistant test was performed for untreated and Fire-off/DMDHEU treated fabrics to investigate the effect of the treatment on wrinkle recovery performance of fabrics. Results showed that Fire-off/DMDHEU system is a more effective nitrogen provider than Fire-off alone to enhance the flame retarding performance of the treated CO/PET fabrics through phosphorus-nitrogen synergism, therefore the presence of DMDHEU in the flame retardant finishing system increases the flame resistance of the treated CO/PET fabric. In addition, DMDHEU does not significantly change the wrinkle recovery of fabrics when used with Fire-off.

The influence of electromagnetic radiation (EMR) on a person is connected with the existence of electromagnetic field - a special form of matter which conducts the effect of electrically charged particles. The causes of electromagnetic field formation are defined by the fact that the occurrence of electric field changing in time is the reason of magnetic field formation and magnetic field occurrence is the cause of vortex electric fields; both fields change in time and excite each other. Electromagnetic waves formed during these processes exist irrespective of a source of their initiation. Continuous impact of electromagnetic radiation on a person negatively affects various organs of human body. EMR leads to headaches, fatigue of the organism, disorders of the body. The maximum influence of EMR occurs on "blood and eyes, the incidence of cancer and cataract increases, the number of people suffering from skin diseases increases". An important area today is the creation of fabrics protecting from electromagnetic radiation.

Comfort and aesthetic appearance are the basic features that consumers expect from their clothes. For improving body movement comfort in apparel, elastic core-spun yarns can be used to produce elasticity of the woven and knitted fabrics. In this study, the effects of elastane linear density on the mechanical properties of double core and single core yarns, spun with different core materials, were investigated. According to statistical evaluations, significant differences were found between yarn properties.

The paper aims at introducing a qualitative method for the evaluation of warp knitted spacer fabrics stiffness, through the measurement of their natural frequencies, considering the direct relationship between natural frequencies of the textile fabrics and their stiffness. Additionally, the goal of this work was to comparatively evaluate the results obtained by two testing methods that utilise different measurement principles. The experimental design included the free vibration method, employed to measure the natural frequencies of the spacer mesh structures produced on K. Mayer RD 6 N double needle bar machine, manufactured in two variants of thickness and widths.The natural materials frequencies have been recorded coursewise, walewise and perpendicular on the fabric surface. The testing results confirmed the influence of the fabric thickness, the samples having lower thickness being characterized by the highest level of natural frequencies and stiffness. In parallel, the analysis of the knitted spacer fabrics' flexibility was performed, allowing a comparison of fabrics stiffness and validating the dynamic test results.

The comfort of clothing is essential as to performance relative to the wearer and is considered a quality factor in the choice of a particular garment. That is why the science of comfort is used to evaluate jeans, a symbol of popular fashion and the consumption of the poor classes of Brazil [1]. Therefore, the present paper consists of the presentation of the experimental phase of a PhD research on the study of the comfort of Brazilian female jeans, specifically referring to thermal comfort tests through the use of equipment such as Permetest and Thermal Manikin for measuring thermophysiological comfort properties.

The development of smart textiles relies in many applications on of textile-integrated sensors. Flexible piezoresistive pressure sensors have many potential applications, for instance in sports science. In this study, flexible pressure sensors are built using piezoresistive polymer film and conductive fabric. Tests using a universal testing machine show that the sensors are functional, accurate, although showing some hysteresis. However, methods for joining the electrode and piezoresistive layers are necessary to assure mechanical stability of the sensor, without affecting electrical contact between layers. Several methods were tested and results are reported here. The use of thermofusible bonding nets and webs has been found to be an interesting solution.

The properties of biochars obtained by the torrefaction of acrylic based textile wastes were investigated. Waste fibres were torrefied at 300-400 °C and the results indicated that acrylic based textile wastes could be converted into biochar with a high mass yield. Resultant biochars had similar properties to bituminous coal.

Feet plantar pressure measurement and gait pattern analysis can be utilized for different disease detection as well as post-operation rehabilitation monitoring. Increasingly popular for gait analysis in research have become smart sock systems as an alternative to the more expensive commercial analogs, however, analysis with such systems are complicated due to the limited sensor count and other inherit limitations of textile pressure sensors. This paper proposes a new method for gait pattern recognition for use with smart sock systems. According to this method, steps are classified depending on the sum of Manhattan distances (SMD) between two high-dimension vectors, from which one describes the step to analyze and the other is a predefined vector representing a specific gait pattern. The gait pattern with the lowest SMD value to the particular step vector is assigned to each step. An experiment was performed to verify the proposed method, where three volunteers simulated three gait types, normal, pronation and supination, and the simulated steps were compared to references. The experimental results confirmed that typically the lowest SMD value was obtained by the reference corresponding to the tested gait pattern type. In one of the demonstrated cases, the mean SMD value for the same set of steps with the reference for normal step was 1.26, 1.77, and 1.78, with reference for pronation it was 1.75, 1.57, and 2.59, and reference for supination, 1.75, 2.15 and 1.46, for normal gait, gait with pronation and gait with supination, respectively. It can be seen that the lowest mean SMD value for each gait type is when the correct reference is applied.

The aim of this study is to examine the usability of warp knitted spacer fabrics as a hip protector, in order to eliminate the complaints frequently encountered in the market, due to their higher air and water vapor permeability, thermal conductivity, good compressibility and lightweight. For this purpose, the physical and performance properties of silicone and latex coated warp-knitted spacer fabrics were determined. With an attempt to discuss the effect of coating and fabric structural parameters on the physical and performance characteristics, six warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced by varying thickness (12.5 and 15 mm) and mesh structure (small and large hexagonal mesh). Then, fabrics were coated with silicone and latex by using vacuum infusion process in order to improve the force attenuation capacity of the fabrics. The fabrics were coated with silicone and latex substrates in a 1:1 and 1:½ weight ratios, respectively. Mass per unit area, thickness, air permeability, compressibility, dimensional stability and compression set properties were measured and evaluated.

Nonwoven fabrics are used for surgical gown applications due to their low cost, lightweight, durability, breathability, low hairiness and disposability. Multi-layered nonwovens with membranes are used in disposable surgical gowns to enhance protection against fluids, aerosol, toxins and microorganisms to meet the needs of surgical applications. In this study, we have analysed thermal comfort properties of SMS (spunbond-meltblown-spunbond) fabrics with three different weights (35 g/m², 50 g/m² and 80 g/m²) and also evaluated the layered nonwoven structures with a breathable and water impermeable membrane. As a result of the study, fabric weight and layered structure had been found to have an important effect on the comfort properties of nonwoven fabrics.

Optimal comfort will enable the wearer to work efficiently over long periods of time and help to protect the body from imminent overheating. The thermal performance of fire fighters' protective clothing is primarily based on the thermophysical properties of the materials that are used to construct the clothing. In this study, we have used new fire resistant underwear. The main purpose of this study is to evaluate the single fabric layer thermal comfort behaviours of underwear, outer shell, moisture barrier and thermal barrier fabrics together with their three-layered and four-layered combinations to understand their multilayer fabric thermal comfort performances.

This paper presents the development and performance assessment of textile-based sensor based on a three layer architecture for the step detection. Two different transducing elements (EeonTex™ LG-SLPA and velostat) and electrodes (Satatex Techniktex P-130 and Elitex yarns) were selected for the construction of the sensors. The performance of the resulting sensors was assessed based on a dynamometer cyclic compression/decompression test with different compressions loads and at different speeds. Additionally, a real-life experiment was conducted to evaluate the sensor response during walking. The results show that all sensors configurations have a non-linear resistance-force relation. The best sensor configuration for the step detection was the combination of EeonTex™ LG-SLPA as a transducing element and the Elitex yarns for the electrodes. In this configuration, the resistance magnitude varies in an order of hundreds of kohms between the stance and the swing phases.

The aim of this research is to implement suitable model for estimation mechanical properties of spun yarn. The behavior of fibers in the initial stage of their loading, which are oriented in the direction of the action of the load, is considered. The location of the fibers along the spiral lines has been studied, which leads to reduction in the cross section of the yarn as a result of the approach of the fibers. It is revealed that when the axial force is removed in the fibers, irreversible deformations remain, and in some fibers, residual stresses. This leads to an uneven distribution of strain across the section and it is one of the reasons for the structural unevenness of the yarn. It is established that the time for the realization of the internal resource of the yarn depends on the properties of the raw materials used, the way the yarn is formed, the condition of its winding and other factors. Two types of yarn are considered - compact and conventional, and the change in their deformation in time has been experimentally investigated. Various rheological models were used to develop the patterns of yarn deformation, taking into account the change in its structure during the loading process. The evaluation of yarn deformation taking into account its structure was performed using the Kelvin model with time-variable parameters, which take into account the instant and long modulus of elasticity of the material and the increase in strength characteristics of compact yarn is proved.

Fashion Design is a complex sector, formed by scattered consumers and companies, by non-linear models of production and by dynamic information flow. Sustained by technology pervasiveness fashion designers and fashion consumers create content around fashion brands, beyond the formality of products. New models of consumption fashion push new models of fashion design and should be pushing new models of learning. What kind of learning model can better prepare future professionals to contribute to the sector? This paper hypothesizes that online collaborative environments represent a valid alternative to recognize fashion designers, as fashion consumers, as 'lifelong' fashion learners. We confronted the results obtained in previous studies with recent data gathered from providers about consumer behavior on global online and mobile usage and penetration, fashion design sector in Europe and fashion design 'e-commerce' worldwide. The results demonstrated that although fashion figured as the most significant eCommerce segment in 2017, fashion design higher education programs offered online are either non-existent or merely transpose the traditional lecture-based education models to online settings. This paper also presents heutagogical principles for fashion design higher education, demonstrating how they could collaborate to bring together fashion consumption, fashion design development, and fashion design learning.

Industry 4.0 is the current trend of automation and data exchange in manufacturing technologies, including textile and clothing industry. The concept of Industry 4.0 is based on the integration of information and communication technologies, industrial technology and is mainly dependent on building a Cyber-Physical System (CPS) to prepare a digital and intelligent factory, to become more digital, customized and (why not?) also green. The purpose of Industry 4.0 is to build a highly flexible production model of personalized and digital products and services, with real-time interactions between people, products and devices during the production process. This paper will show how a Portuguese clothing company (GUIMA) is preparing their processes, skills and resources to be in the Industry 4.0. The research team is following the industrial process for four months, starting from the reception and quality control of raw materials and accessories, until the orders expedition to different customers. Some results already obtained shows how the digitalization is yet in a preliminary stage in the clothing industry and is necessary to prepare the entire resources from the clothing company to achieve the horizontal and vertical integration in the manufacturing I4.0.

This research investigated the tactile sensory analysis of total handle in a range of wool-type fabrics. Considering the interaction of textile materials from garments with the consumer's senses as an essential performance property, seven wool-type fabrics selected as suitable for the final use, which is women office trousers for the cold season, were evaluated by a panel with non-experts for assessing the Total Handle Value. Experiments were conducted in two successive stages: by the individual panelists (as blind handling) and by the panel of assessors for consensus (visualization-with-handling). Previously developed ICT-based learning tools, STAT-Hand and STAT-ConCor, were used for both, the sensory analysis trials accomplishment and the processing of the total handle results. One outcome was that a panel of non-experts can get a good enough degree of agreement among individuals after the blind handling of a range of fabrics and, statistically, this cannot be considered accidental. The result of the consensus reaching on a panel level, through visualization and handling, about the Total Handle Value was not as good as expected and this was argued in the paper. After the blind handling, within the panel of individuals and visualization with handling as a panel consensus, the most proper fabric for women office trousers for the cold season was emphasized from the selected range.

Due to tailorable and superior mechanical properties normalized by their density; the use of fiber reinforced polymers (aka composites) is increasing steadily. Nonwoven surfaces from randomly oriented glass fibers are commonly used reinforcement fabrics in composite industry, and their resin infusion and final composite performances are largely dictated by their porosity that is quantified by air permeability. This research dealt with air permeability characterization of nonwoven fabric from chopped and randomly oriented glass fibers. Number of layers and fabric test face direction were selected as product input variables, while pressure drop and test head area were selected as process input variables. Front and back faces of the fabric stacks with single, double and triple layers were subjected to air permeability test with test head areas of 20 and 30 cm², and across a pressure drop of 100 and 200 Pa. As expected, multiple fabric layers exhibited lower air permeability. While test face of fabric and test head area did not affect the air permeability; measurements performed under 200 Pa pressure drop resulted in higher air permeability than that of 100 Pa at statistically significant level, which was explained by Bernoulli Equation.

Weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarns present many advantages in technical textile applications. However, due to their stiff and brittle nature; glass fibers can easily be broken during weft knitting process that creates broken fiber ends on the fabric surface, and deteriorates the performance of resultant fabric. In this study, weft-knitted glass fabrics with four different knit architectures, and two different cam settings were produced. Number of yarn ply was also varied as 2- and 3-ply. The effect of all these input parameters on strength loss of glass yarn was examined via measuring virgin and unravelled yarn strengths in loop form. Results showed that knit pattern, cam setting and number of yarn ply did not affect the unravelled loop yarn strength at statistically significant level. On the other hand; unravelled yarns exhibited better loop strength than virgin yarns that was attributed to uniform distribution of fibers over cross sectional area of yarn as a result of knitting process.

Sewability is the ability of the fabric to be sewn without faults and represents the ease of fabric processing at a satisfactory level. It can be used to predict problems which may occur in the garment sewing stage and it can be accurately measured using the L&M sewability tester as a function of that needle penetration force though the fabric. Sewability is attributed to fabric properties, pretreatment, finishing, sewing conditions and mishandling. Fabric softeners affect the ease of sewing processing of garments, which is mostly reflected by the needle penetration force. The current work was driven by previous study focused on the analysis of factors affecting the sewability of cellulosic woven fabrics of a wide range of designs and constructions, where the influence of several fabric properties on the needle penetration force had been investigated, revealing the existence of a relationship between the inherent properties of mass per square metre, breaking strength and bending length. However, the in-depth statistical analysis had shown that rigid structures follow a different trend in comparison to the light ones. In the current work, thin and light structured fabrics were excluded from the investigation and focus was given exclusively to the rigid structures of higher mass per square metre fabrics which are known to be problematic in sewing stage. Although the investigation was confined to the main three inherent properties which had proven to influence needle penetration, it included fabric treatments of washing and softening on the samples. Results show an increase in the interdependency of the studied properties while treatments show a minimal effect probably to low level of application.

The bending force of monofilaments used as pile layer in artificial turf football fields is a very important property due to the strong relation with the performance of the entire system being the force that mostly influences the deformation of monofilaments. The existing test methods for measuring this force can only be used to perform tests at room temperature. Nowadays, artificial turf surfaces are being installed worldwide, even in regions with very high values of air temperature, leading to the need of evaluating the performance of monofilaments and thus, of testing their bending force at elevated temperatures.

The aim of this paper is to use the DMA's advantage of testing at high temperatures, by using a new test method developed for measuring the bending force of monofilaments at room temperature and to evaluate the results obtained. For this purpose, six different LLDPE (Low Linear Density Polyethylene) monofilaments are tested at temperatures 25°C, 50°C and 80°C and the bending force is measured. The DMA is used successfully on performing tests at high temperatures. Considering the results, an analysis of the bending behavior of LLDPE monofilaments depending on the temperature is done. All fibers show the same trends regarding this influence, with decreasing of the bending force while increasing the temperature.

The focus of this paper is to study the quality of goat fibres / hair from various Albanian regions for possible use in the textile industry. In Albania there are several regions where the collection of these fibres is possible but interest to employ them is lacking. This dearth of interest could be due to the paucity of information regarding the quality of such fibres. In the not-so-distant past Albania had a tradition of using these fibres for various handmade textile products, especially for products where strength, durability and dimensional stability are required.

In this investigation the physical mechanical and thermal properties of this material are studied. Also, given that wool fibres are the main attraction as a component in high performance thermal protection applications to provide protection from fire, high limitation oxygen index (LOI) tests are performed. Samples are taken from five regions and from the obtained results the finesses of the fibres are at very high values, approximately 78µ; however, the values of LOI are rather promising, 41%, and comparable values concerning the special fibres used for fire protection.

Public awareness regarding the risks of prolonged skin exposure to the sun light and more specifically to the UV spectrum part is increased during the last decades. Clothing is the most natural and suitable way of protecting the human body, thus the market interest in clothes that can offer adequate UV protection is growing continuously. Previous research works have revealed the main factors that influence the ability of fabrics to block harmful UV radiation. However, the variability of these factors and the versatility of their combined effect make UV protection factor prediction difficult and hence the design of fabrics with high performance against UV radiation becomes a complicated task. Hopefully, the most critical and predictable among all factors is the fabric structure itself. Expectedly, closer and tighter structures offer higher UV protection. Due to this fact, the majority of previous research concern woven structures which generally are less porous and offer a higher UV protection. However, the possibility to obtain knitted fabrics with adequate UV protection factor is of great interest, since knitted fabrics are more appropriate for sports as well as for casual summer fashion garments. Current literature regarding the UV protection factor of knitted fabrics is very limited and concerns mostly fabrics produced in machines of relative large gauges. In the present work the UV protection factor of various typical weft-knitted structures, produced in a flat knitting machine with 7 gauge and by using grey 100% Organic Cotton yarns, Ne 30/2, 330 TPM (twists per meter) is studied. The yarn has been selected due to the increasing market interest for Organic Cotton products.

Smart textiles are the materials that can perceive and respond to the changes in environmental conditions. Photochromic textiles, one of the smart textile products, can reversibly change their color by UV irradiation. Photochromic textiles have become more attractive with the increasing interest in functional textile materials. In this paper, the applications of photochromic dyes in textile industry, the problems experienced in the processes and general information about the solution possibilities of these problems are given.

The textile industry has been exploring sensory analysis as means to evaluate different products as a strategy to improve product comfort. The sensory analysis uses a set of attributes standardized for sensory evaluation: the lexicons. This paper compares three lexicons developed to assess the sensory comfort of textile fabrics, by researchers from France, Portugal and Brazil. Quantitative Descriptive Analysis was conducted for the development of these lexicons. The study showed that France and Portugal have thirteen attributes in common and seven attributes are common in France, Portugal and Brazil: Light-Heavy, Gross-Fine, Fresh-Hot, Soft, Plushy, Elasticity and Falling.

A one smoothing cell integration scheme in the strain smoothing technique in finite elements (referred as SFEM) was proposed to evaluate the nodal train fields of a four-node quadrilateral (Q4) shell element, which is based on the first-order shear deformation theory of plate (FSDT). A mixed interpolation of tensorial components (MITC) approaches for Q4 transverse shear strains also applied to eliminate a shear locking phenomenon that may occur when the thin plate/shell elements are geometrically distorted in curved geometries of fabric sheet. The numerical eigenvalues of buckling analysis of a plain-woven fabric sample, of which physical and mechanical parameters extracted from Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-FB), obtained a higher efficiency in numerical computation and approximated to Q4 shell element implemented in the finite element method (FEM).

This study presents the drying time and moisture spreading characteristics of double face interlock fabrics, which were knitted by the combination of polyester, cotton and viscose yarns. The results revealed that polyester-cotton samples showed the lowest drying time and better moisture transfer capability among all tested fabric, when the polyester face is placed inside of the garment. Also, a relationship was determined between water spreading and drying properties.

In this study, the effects of cotton fibre properties on the tenacity, elongation, unevenness and hairiness of the compact yarns were investigated in detail. For this purpose, compacted yarns having four different yarn counts as Ne 30/1, 40/1, 50/1 and 60/1 with similar twist coefficient between α_e 4.2-4.4 were produced systematically. The fibre, sliver, roving and yarn, that in cops and package form, properties were measured step by step from the beginning to the end of yarn production. According to the findings, unevenness, imperfections, hairiness, breaking strength and elongation results of the compact yarns were evaluated taking into account unevenness results of sliver and roving, and fibre properties tested by High Volume Instruments (HVI).Keywords: Cotton, compact yarn, HVI, unevenness, hairiness, tenacity.

Electronic textiles (e-textiles) are a form of textiles that, integrating technology, can add new functionalities or forms of expression. The fabric can, for instance, have sensing properties, emerging as a textile sensor, which is a subfield of the e-textiles, widely reported in literature. One such kind of sensors are the extension sensors, usually studied for breathing monitoring, posture detection or characterization of movements. There are several challenges associated with the production of a textile extension sensor with high precision and repeatability. This paper reports the design and development of a knit-based sensor that uses a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) adhesive and film to either bond or insulate the sensing area (respectively), in order to improve the sensor's performance. The sensors were found to be appropriate for measuring breathing rate, but not for absolute extension measurements. The use of elastic tape or TPU produced the most stable results.

The present study aimed to evaluate the effect of industrial finishing and washing processes on some properties of stretch denim fabrics. The investigations have been carried out using stretch denim fabrics with a composition of 98% CO/2% EL and 3/1 Z twill weave. Starting from a greige denim fabric, through the application of various finishing treatments, six variants of finished denim fabrics were obtained. Subsequently, the finished fabrics have been subjected to washing processes commonly used for washing denim garments, in order to attain the appearance and properties as close as possible to those required by the garment products to be made of these materials. The effect of finishing treatments and washing processes on the denim fabrics was assessed by measuring certain structural and physical-mechanical properties. Have been selected and determined by usual laboratory testing methods - as objective assessment - those fabric properties that can be also subjectively assessed by the customers: fabric weight and thickness, fabric extensibility and flexural rigidity, coefficient of friction. The obtained results showed significant changes of fabrics properties both after industrial finishing treatments and after washing processes. These confirm the possibility of obtaining a diverse range of denim fabrics featuring various properties, starting from a single type of greige fabric, by using various finishing treatments and washing processes.

Inventory management has become one of the key elements of the supply chain management and can greatly affect the performance of a business. The textile industry is no exception. Traditional approaches in decision making based on manager instincts and hunches are no longer enough in the today's increasingly competitive environment. Small to medium sized family owned textile businesses are usually prone to this way of thinking.

This paper discusses some basic concepts and techniques for classifying inventory, controlling inventory levels, avoiding stock outs and increasing customer satisfaction. It also discusses the importance of forecasting demand and uses the Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) as an effective measure of the forecast error, which later becomes a basic driver for inventory management. It addresses the Service Level (SL) as a performance metric and emphasizes on the importance of Safety Stock (SS). Finally, it discusses the use of the Reorder Point (ROP) as an efficient indicator for triggering production replenishment and proposes a simple technique for prioritizing production orders.

Recently, increasing number of studies are performed on protective fabrics containing conductive yarns for electromagnetic shielding purposes. In this paper, several weft knitted fabrics were developed with conductive yarns of the same yarn count and their conductivity and electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) were measured. The variations in EMSE as well as reflection, transmission and other physical properties of knitted conductive fabrics were investigated considering conductive yarns and knit structure. It is observed that an increase in the conductive yarns content significantly alters conductivity while all samples demonstrate sufficient EMSE in high frequency bands; Measurements results are presented herein and future research directions are provided.

Paper carries out the manufacturing of pajamas made of different knitting structures. One emphasized on criteria necessary to fulfill the medical requirements according with patient critical condition. Considering burns wounds of 3rd degree one has in view the need of thermal insulation (the remaining skin surface does not cover up the ability of thermal insulation and patient is confronted with hypothermia), keeping sepsis condition liquid feeding and a specific pharmacodynamics therapy. The paper has in view two lines one is to obtain a pajamas based on high comfort for hyper sensitized and damaged skin made by means of specific knitting systems and secondly to promote on inner surface of pajamas a specific biomaterial able to speed up healing and fast recovery of burn wound. There presented detailed on progress research obtained on a specific biomaterial and on main lines to obtaining a clothing system able to promote a medical therapy.

In this study, various knitted fabric structures were designed to help preventing muscular difficulties in sports. The samples, containing channels in widthwise direction, were produced by jacquard knitting technique. The effects of channel size and quilted inlay design were investigated in terms of pressure behaviour, thermal and water vapour resistance. Increasing of channel size and adding inlay yarns provided higher thermal resistance, as well as an increase in water vapour resistance, they also significantly affected pressure characteristics of samples.

To analyze the possibility of creating polyacrylonitrile fibrous materials modified with carbon nanomaterials (CNM), the effect of CNM on the process of synthesis of a copolymer of acrylonitrile (AN), methyl acrylate (MA) and 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) in dimethylformamide (DMF) was studied. The deterioration of the kinetic characteristics of the process and the molecular mass properties of the obtained copolymer is established. The rheological properties of solutions of poly [AN-co-MA-co-AMPS] in DMF containing CNM were investigated. The effect of CNM on the spinning capacity of AN copolymer spinning solutions, the ability of the spun fibers to plasticization stretching and thermo-orientation one, as well as the physico-mechanical properties of the obtained fibers is shown.

Applications of 3D printing in fashion industry are numerous, including 3D printing geometries on textile fabrics, printing parts of the garments, or even the entire garment. A crucial point of making such polymer/textile combinations usable is the adhesion between both materials. Investigations related to this adhesion, however, are still scarce. Similarly, the influence of 3D printed patterns on the geometries and the mechanical parameters of textile fabrics are only rarely examined. Continuing our previous research, the experiments shown here illustrate the influence of different printing parameters on the adhesion between fabrics and 3D printing polymer. These results will support other researchers as well as fashion designers in developing new 3D garment shapes by combining common textile fabrics with the relatively new possibility of 3D printing.

Textile industries consume large volumes of water and chemicals for wet processing of textiles. Textiel wastewater damage the environment as they contain high concentrations of organic and inorganic chemicals. There is also a lot of waste water and energy consumption while processes. Reactive dyes react with cellulose to establish covalent bond and are water soluble. Because of these properties and low fix rates, they cause high levels of dyes in waste water. Reactive dyes which are not totaly fixed to the fabric throughout the dyeing process. Washing is required to remove un-fixed dye from the fabric, The control of water pollution has become of increasing importance in recent years. The control of water pollution has become of increasing importance in recent years. The release of dyes into the environment constitutes water pollution. Since conventional treatment methods are insufficient for purifying dyehouse wastewaters, new treatment technologies are developed and applied for its treatment. Nowadays, removal of dyes methods are often very costly and have many problems. For this reason, effective and economical alternative treatment methods are needed in removing large amounts of dyes from waste water. In this study, it is aimed to reduce the number of washing treatment after direct and reactive dyeing. It is planned to develop filters made from cationic fibers while the use for after treatment processes. When experiments are done, we observed that non-hydrolysis of the dyes trapped into the developed filters. As a result of these study, the wastewater likely to show better results such as; less energy and, less water consumption has been achieved.

The article is dedicated to the development of calculation method of a base line mass of a polymer compound to be applied onto the textiles with an added performance of friability relative to each other. The method of strengthening of the yarned joints of products from the range of fabrics of sparse structures is being considered. The obtained results of the research made possible to reveal the negative influence of such indicators as the friability and moving ability of the yarns on the quality of yarn crossections (move ability and friability of yarns in the fabric, it's tensile strength, stiffness, etc.) and the product as a whole, which make possible to use progressive processing methods during the selection of garment production technology. To ensure the required quality and reliability of yarned joints of garments made of highly expandable fabrics, the studies have been carried out. At the same time, as a control, a fabric was chosen without applying a polymer and another alternative variant was chosen as well, using the liquid-phase polymer compositions along the seams. The control and alternative variants of the samples were subject to comparative assessment according to the criteria of tensile strength, resistance to friability, flexural rigidity, air permeability and resistance to washing. As a result of the studies, the rational parameters of the technological conditions of applying the liquid-phase polymer composition onto the jointing stiches of the garment components were established to improve the performance properties.

The article presents effective construction scheme and operating principle of plastic diamond pattern on bars on resilient supports of raw cotton cleaners for large weeds. Basic parameters of cleaning zone of the proposed construction are based on theoretical and experimental research. Production testing confirmed effectiveness of plastic diamond pattern bars use.

Spacer fabrics are a versatile textile construction that can be modified and adapted for a wide range of uses. While the behaviour of spacer fabrics in compression has been extensively studied, their time dependant properties such as creep and stress relaxation have not been investigated equally well. In this research project warp-knit spacer fabrics underwent consecutive compression cycles and the resulting stress degradation over time curves were analysed in order to develop a mathematical and mechanical model of the material behaviour. Based on this analysis it was found that the complexity of spacer structure results in the creep behaviour being connected to the creep bending of interconnecting yarns.

In this work, possibilities for producing textile materials with copper core cotton yarns for the purpose of electromagnetic shielding were studied. Cu/Co core yarns were produced by using copper filaments as core material with two different diameters (0.05 and 0.07mm) and cotton as sheath material. All core yarns are produced in Ne 8 yarn count. Conductive Cu/Co yarns were integrated in to 3/1 twill woven fabric structure in the weft direction with 5 different weft densities (8, 13, 18, 23 and 28 per cm). According to the TS EN 50147-1 standard, the shielding effectiveness of these fabrics was measured in the frequency range 1 GHz - 6 GHz. The results have shown that EMSE of fabrics can be tailored by changing the weft density, core filament fineness and wave frequency parameters.

Even if smart textiles gained a certain level of maturity, they are not yet ready for the market at large scale. The main issues explaining this are related to problems of reliability and difficulties to launder smart textile structures. Smart textiles are also facing problems for launching in market due to lack of standardizations. This paper is focused on washability standards of smart textiles. The objective is to co relate available textile mechanical tests with the washing of smart textiles and to observe the change in their performances. First, different washing functions and washing factors acting in laundering machines are analysed and discussed. Then Martindale abrasion tests and pilling box tests were performed in order to detect damages similar to those provoked by washing process. Two different types of silver coated conductive threads sewn on cotton plain woven fabric are used. Changes in threads resistance during these tests are analysed and correlated with modifications of electrical conductivity after washing of the similar samples. Therefore, the mechanical stresses underwent by conductive threads during washing cycle have been identified and reproduced by standardized testing equipment. More generally, this paper emphasizes all the problems, encompassing efforts that industry and research labs have to realize to make smart textile structures more robust and able to be cleaned or washed similarly to everyday textile products such as underwear, clothing, home textiles and even technical textiles. It gives indications on how the issues related to reliability and washability of smart textile structures have to be addressed in order to make them reliable and robust enough to be put on the market.

Footwear prototyping is constrained by significant volume of "sampling", time to market pressures, cost implications and the failure of the industry to attract and develop high quality professionals mastering modern computer-aided product development. Computer-Aided Engineering (CAE) and material selection are becoming increasingly important transforming factors of this process raising the question of how to best integrate them into the design function considering not only infrastructure issues but also human resources and financing. Their role in footwear development is presented in this paper, based on the view of design as a multistage process subject to Concurrent Engineering. Proposed interventions to the design process for exploiting modern CAE and material selection tools are discussed, taking into account the business Value Chain Model and modern Cloud Service approaches. Innovative approaches to harness the processing power of modern CAE tools are identified and related to business practices, considering, also, the role of product development professionals and financing constraints. In particular, the application of the cloud service model of managing Software as a Service is discussed along with relevant opportunities and limitations. The paper concludes with an overall assessment of the impact that this model may have on the footwear industry.

This paper discusses anthropometric data obtained through 3D body scanner technology, aiming the dimensioning of Portuguese children´s measurements for the design of clothing. The study comprises boys and girls from the Northern Region of Portugal aged between two and ten years old. The main objective of this part of the study was to evaluate the possibility of grouping children with six and seven years old in a same garment size, proposing the same body measurements in the final standard measurements table. In addition to the children's anthropometric measurements, it was checked the body conformation of the children and the possibility of identifying the main biotypes. As a preliminary result, through cluster analysis it was found that it is possible to combine these children in the same group in the proposed standard measurements table.

Wheelchair rugby is a sport played by approximately 200 people in the United Kingdom. Despite being a small part of the population, research suggests that there are some aspects related to the sports-wear that need attention. This is especially relevant for gloves, as they have been identified as one of the main causes of performance losses. Until now, there are no gloves available on the market that were developed to respond to this sport's needs and requirements. The purpose of this paper was to present the concepts of the initial designs and first prototype of a pair of gloves created for wheelchair rugby. The designs were developed based on the feedback from one UK-based wheelchair rugby team. Of the designs produced only one was selected to be developed as a physical prototype. This particular design had in consideration the most important features identified by the athletes, namely the easiness of putting on and taking off the gloves, the padding and grip in specific areas and the elimination of the need for tape to secure.

Based on 3D body scanning technology, KES properties of real knitted materials, new body measurements for digital twin generating, we developed the virtual method of men's underwear try-on. The results show that by means of virtual software 3D CLO we can simulate well the body characteristic, the underwear structure, the knitted material elongation, and the compression pressure distribution. New underwear design can have a good presentation in customization and mass production.

Most important human body measurements are used for sizing uniforms and work wear. If the measurements are gained and used inappropriate, the garments may be unsuitable for the end-user. The target group is soldiers which are provided with uniform jackets which appropriate fit is significant for successful accomplishment of their daily tasks. Anthropometry as a method studies total morphological characteristics which measurement procedure can be influenced by different factors - the chosen measuring tools and equipment, the influences of body posture and their changes. The aim of the research is investigation of chest circumference - factors affecting the measurement precision and differences between manual and 3D scanning anthropometrical methods. Different measurements of the chest circumference also in different body postures show that the manually obtained chest girth is closer to the chest girth perpendicular to the axis of the torso, rather than the horizontal chest girth which is most significant dimension in patternmaking of upper body garments.

This paper focuses on analysis of clothing appearance and fit. Clothing fit ensures human body comfort in terms of microclimate, movements and the body well-being. Garments produced in serial production developed according sizing chart, which is suited to the individual measurements by indifference intervals only. Some, more elaborated systems use drop values. The fit is good for people whose size meets the middle of the table. If the measured values reach the end of the interval, fit is at risk. This is especially important for garments with integrated additional features. Clothing appearance and fit assessment methods are currently well developed - it is possible to assess the individual's 3D look and the distance from the body of the garment. Such an analysis can be done either through virtual simulation or by scanning a real person and/or sample. However, none of aforementioned methods assess the individual's senses in clothing. Therefore, a system is proposed which allows evaluating the analysis of clothing pressure.

The article describes the statistical analysis on the main components and the preliminary results for the development of a table of measurements, focused on the overweight and obesity of children from the north of Portugal, as part of an ongoing PhD research in Textile Engineering at the University of Minho, Portugal. In this sense, for the construction of a sample table of measurements, the studies of Huyssteen [1], Silveira [2], and Gill [3], recommend anthropometric studies, health databases and statistical analyzes.

A study about pattern making of twist knot drape shows that in the constructional systems there isn't any mathematically founded dependence between the diameter of the knot and the widths of the draped pieces in the place of twist. The paper presents an investigation of connection between the knot diameter and the widths of the draped pieces in the place of twist in design of patterns with twist knot draperies. The investigation has been made only for woven fabrics. The obtained dependence between the knot diameter and the widths of the draped pieces in the place of twist has made the design of patterns with twist knot draperies fully systematized. The systematization gives possibility for easy and correct pattern making of twist knot drape clothes with various sizes of diameter of knot and drapery parts width. The system facilitates the process of fashion design and pattern making and gives possibility of variety of new designs twist knot drape clothes. It is very useful for ready-to-wear industry.

The application of the innovative educational and design technologies offers quality improvement of higher education in fashion design by interactivity, flexibility and dynamics. The paper presents the application of the innovative technologies in education in fashion design subjects, included in the Bachelor and Master programs of Design, Technology and Management in Fashion Industry at Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University, Bulgaria. According to the examinations results and studying student opinion it can be concluded that application of presented innovative technologies in fashion design education provide easier and more accessible learning of the study material, acquiring more knowledge in a short time, developing the students' creativity, creative and visual thinking and design skills, and generally their application can lead to an increase in the quality of education.

The paper has considered the questions connected with formation of the rational range of the enterprises of clothes production. It has also analyzed the factors influencing the range formation subject to the principles of the rational wardrobe design (a capsular approach and a colour type of one's appearance). The algorithm of the range formation of the enterprises of clothes production in a mass-market segment on the basis of a brand standard subject to the principle of rational wardrobe is developed in the paper. It has created the mathematical model of a rational a product line matrix of the sewing enterprise in a mass-market segment.

An efficient four-node quadrilateral (Q4) shell element based on the first-order shear deformation theory of plate (FSDT) and the strain smoothing technique in finite elements (referred as SFEM) was proposed for eigenvalue analysis of plain-woven fabric structure. A one smoothing domain (or cell) integration scheme in SFEM was proposed to evaluate the nodal train fields of Q4 shell elements. The numerical result of eigenvalue analysis, which was in the case of free vibration analysis, approximated to that one implemented in the finite element method (FEM) but gave a higher efficiency in computation in terms of central processing unit (CPU) time and numerical implementation.

Physical exercise has proved benefits for general health [1] and can reduce the number of sports injuries to one third [2]. However, an athlete that has been injured during sports practice may omit this out of fear of discrimination, and worsen the injury in the weight room, during strength training [5]. Monitoring physiological status of an athlete or rehabilitation patients during training may thus help the person to get an earlier intervention, preventing injuries from getting worse. With this in mind, we propose a set of compression garments - shirt and leggings - with textile sensors to continually monitor heart and muscle activity, breathing rate and temperature. This paper reports the design of the garments and production of the shirt, which comprised a 3-lead ECG system, sEMG (Surface Electromiography) electrodes and a breathing sensor. The ECG (Electrocardiography) system was tested and presented some good results, in particular for very even movements, but the system still needs to be improved, in order to get a better signal, when it comes to movements with a considerable amplitude.

Main purpose of this study is to develop the virtual method of predicting the misfit based on new obtaining relations between pattern blocks and body features. In our research, digital twin of female body in CLO3D was used. 3D-2D pattern block flattening technology was used to obtain the body prototype of avatar. The ease value of main structural parts for blouse pattern blocks and the proportions of ease value were obtained by respectively overlapping the blouse pattern blocks with the body prototype. Pattern blocks were analyzed and evaluated in terms of the proportions of ease value. New method can be used to analyze and predict the quality of blouse pattern block effectively and improve the efficiency of virtual garment design.

The aim of this exploration is to research on how the body measurements change under deformation during diving. We measured 31 body measurements of 57 females in six postures including four postures on the land and two postures under the water. We compared the body measurements, especially focused on the differences between standing and laying prone postures, and check the pattern and pressure with virtual method. It will help designers to find the reasonable dynamic ease and apply it to the pattern block design of wetsuit.

In this research we explored the new hierarchical fit criteria of made-to-measure (MTM) men shirt in consideration of the male torso types and shirt styles. As the most pivotal factor of MTM products, clothing fit directly determines consumer's satisfaction towards the clothing. To improve the fit of MTM men shirt with an optimized customization process, 118 male bodies were scanned to attain the conventional and novel anthropometric measurements. Meanwhile, the torso type were classified into five distinct groups in accordance with proportions of anteroposterior girths of different levels. Based on the specific groups, the acceptable eases distribution of the pattern were investigated to form the good-fitted men shirts of different styles in virtual try-on platform. With this methodology, the new fit criteria were proposed especially for improving the mass-production of customized men shirt.

The trends of contemporary fashion design are considerably referring to the historical costumes. Regarding the relevant records of pattern block drafting methods of historical costumes, although the patterns and their concrete indexes are accessible, the anthropometric features of the corresponding historical wearer are uncharted. The purpose of this research is to employ the 2D CAD and 3D virtual try-on technologies to reconstruct the historical costumes to calculate and assess the anthropometric measurements of the historical wearers, validating by the results of virtual system "historical costume - body".

This article contributes to a better understanding of the omni-channel concept in fashion retail, more specifically, in the Portuguese footwear segment and understand if the current challenge of brands is based on the union of all sales channels in order to gain, to locate and to provide a perfect experience to their customers, having regard to the online world and the offline world. The methodology employed was the case study of two Portuguese footwear brands. The collection of data was obtained through two distinct and complementary tools: the semi-structured interview and indirect observation of how brands are moving in their sales channels. The data collected have concluded that there is a big discrepancy between the integration of brands' sales channels, one brand implements more strategies that aims to unify the channels compared to the other.

This paper contributes to a consolidation of the field by narrowing down the gap between sustainable consumption "attitudes/intentions" and actual consumption "behaviour". The adopted methodology is based on a systematic literature review with an initial sample of more than 1000 publications, this paper considers the following inclusion and exclusion criteria throughout the review: research scope, conceptualisation of the terms (e.g. "Sustainable consumption"; "Ethical consumption"; "Green consumption"; "Green consumerism"; "Responsible consumption"), research design (e.g. quantitative, qualitative experimental studies), segments of consumers (Generation Y) and time frame. A qualitative research approach will be adopted in this paper, to safeguard the inclusion of methodologically diverse studies. Additionally, because the mentioned concepts have evolved over time and raised so many different interpretations, a qualitative approach is considered more pertinent. The focus of the review is to build up coherence regarding the sustainable consumption attitude-behavior gap. The paper concludes with a discussion of challenges and recommendations for future work in the field, namely, the need to encourage and educate consumers to live a more sustainable lifestyle and to design and implement responsible marketing tools to communicate the value of sustainable consumption.

Millennials are defined as the group of people born between 1980 and 2000 and maintain a positive attitude in relation to sustainability. However, there is a contradiction between how Millennials think and act when it comes to sustainable consumption. It is interesting to determine which factors can influence their sustainable attitude and behaviour, and those influences can be personal and situational. Six different factors were selected from the literature review and were subject of analysis. The research method will be through three different focus groups with Millennial participants. After the analysis of the focus groups it was possible to understand that Millennials show a very positive attitude towards sustainability but this attitude is not translated in 'green' footwear purchasing behaviour.

The main goal of the study presented in this paper was to compare three different methodologies of pattern design methods. The case study was based on an individual body shape with a severe deformity in the spine with additional different measurements of the bust, waist and hip girths when compared with common standard measurement tables. This methodology comparison aims primarily to identify its performance regarding garment Fit and performance, in particularly, its potential related to electronic sensor integration for vital signals monitoring. Different performance results were obtained, with the best results obtained with the flat pattern block extracted from the 3D digital model surface methodology, followed by the flat pattern block using the studied individual personal measurements and the worst results obtained with the flat pattern block developed from a typical measurements table used by the industry and fashion schools.

This study presents two main analysis focused on Portuguese fashion brands strategies and contemporaneous consumer behavior. The first analysis consisted on the case studied and observation of three Portuguese brands (Patrick de Pádua, Luís Carvalho and Nair Xavier) aiming to understand their behavior on social media. During 4 months, Facebook and Instagram were monitored aiming to understand the strategy of each brand and the consequent results. The second analysis was a online survey with 436 valid answers focused on the understanding of Portuguese fashion consumer behavior. The case studies analysis allowed to understand that to have more followers and thus produce more interactivity on a continuous basis with their public, the brands have to create contents consistent with their markets and publics, with the brand language and also with the brand image. The results obtained on the survey allow to conclude that the number participants that share opinions about fashion products and services are still limited. It was also possible to conclude that the majority of the survey participants know several Portuguese brands, but usually don't buy their products.

In this article, the author introduces two textbooks published for the Hungarian fashion design students. Textbooks Collection development and Design of fashion accessories were published by the Hungarian National Office for Vocational Training and Adult Education in 2015. The two textbooks created based on the curriculum of same name subjects were issued with a goal to create competitive, high-quality literature for the Hungarian young professionals, in their mother tongue. The overview introduces the contents of the books, presents the some content editing issues, and article announces the opinion of the peer review and introduces some sales and library statistic. The textbooks created for college, BA and MA students, and possibly will match the interest of the professionals and fashion enthusiasts too.

The current business models are experiencing changes guided by the solution for serious global problems, related to the indiscriminate use of the planet resources, as well as the unrestrained production of waste and disposals. Thus, companies are being stimulated to rethink their market strategies, based on sustainable entrepreneurship theme, aimed at enhancing economic enterprise development and at the same time having environmental and social purposes. Faced with this new reality, this article aims to analyze how the structures of the new business models, with a focus on sustainable entrepreneurship, for the management of textile wastes, are being designed. So, a qualitative research was carried out, through a case study of a Portuguese company - H Sarah Trading - that works with waste management. The research results point to the construction of business structures that are moving towards sustainable development, balanced with economic profitability, and environmental and social benefits.

One of the main challenges for the Science of Clothing Comfort, is to uncover the intricacies and complexities of the psychological aspects of the clothing comfort perception. The concept and the parameters of this comfort dimension are still in the process of maturing, and the methods and tools to assess this component are still underdeveloped. One of the main drawbacks of the research on the psychological comfort of clothing resides in the dependency of the context and situational information, to elaborate a psychological comfort or discomfort perception. In the realm of the psychological or social-psychological comfort, it's primordial that the context variables are considered. This pilot study aims at examining the feasibility of assessing the perception of (social-)psychological comfort of clothing, using an everyday experience method. For this purpose, the PACO application (pacoapp.com) was the chosen platform.

Creative management is implemented at the pre-design and design stages of the innovation cycle and considers the innovative product as a complex structural. Accordingly, the management associated with the creation of a new system of knowledge, skills and abilities must be in a certain way divided into a number of constituent elements. It should also be noted that creative management should be aimed at the full disclosure of creative abilities of people. The design thinking activates the development of knowledge, skills and abilities, because through the use of a qualitatively different methodical device raises the creative potential to a higher level.

Fashion communication has been undergoing a transformation and there is a drop in tradicional marketing investments which indicates new modalities of brand's communication. The purpose of this study is to discuss the branding strategy relevance through social media and public relations' perspective, aiming to understand how digital marketing platforms have been used and integrated by new fashion brands. This paper presents an ongoing Master's research including data collection method through a qualitative content analysis, aiming to find some features can contributed to improve their market position.

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